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Category Archives: Paris quartiers
Hidden rivers, white queens, and squaring the triangle
On a blustery January day, two friends and I set out to walk the route of the Bièvre river across the Left Bank. Jill, who lives in Paris, had done most of the walk before and suggested the route. Elizabeth, … Continue reading
Lorette
“What is the significance of the name Loretto?” asked Norman, looking at a picture of the former Loretto Academy in Niagara Falls. “It reminds me of that church in Paris.” Notre-Dame-de-Lorette in Paris is an imposing Neoclassical edifice in the … Continue reading
Posted in Paris churches, Paris history, Paris quartiers
Tagged courtesans, filles publiques, Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, grandes horizontales, grisettes, La Nouvelle Athènes, Lorette, maisons closes, Maurice Alhoy, Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, Paul Gavarni, prostitutes, rue Bréda, rue Henry Monnier
10 Comments
Asylum
Last month, when I learned that absinthe had been known as the “Charenton omnibus” – Charenton being the site of a famous mental hospital – I became curious about mental institutions in the Paris area. There are many interesting stories … Continue reading
Early one morning
We do not, as a rule, take early-morning walks in Paris. If we do not have a morning appointment, we tend to dawdle over breakfast, reading and chatting and enjoying the view from the windows. Quick showers are not an … Continue reading
Posted in Paris gardens, Paris history, Paris hospitals, Paris parks, Paris quartiers, Paris streets
Tagged aqueduc Medicis, Centre Hospitalier Sainte-Anne, Charles-Auguste Questel, empêche-pipi, Georges-Eugène Haussmann, Hôpital Rochefoucauld, Lycée Notre Dame de France, Maison Santé des Soeurs Augustines, Monastère de la Visitation, Plancher de Jeannot
10 Comments
Art Nouveau and Aerodynamics in Auteuil
The southern reaches of the 16th arrondissement might be considered the Wild West of Paris. Auteuil was largely countryside when Haussmann was at work on central Paris, and his ideas about tidy facades that lined up neatly never stood much … Continue reading
Posted in Paris architecture, Paris history, Paris quartiers
Tagged Auteuil, Charles Deron-dit-Levent, Gaston Danois, Gustave Eiffel, Hector Guimard, Hotel Danois, Hotel Deron-Levent, Joachim Richard, Laboratoire Aerodynamique Eiffle, Le Tunnel Brasserie, Louis Victor Jassedé, Soufflerie Eiffel
4 Comments
Borders, boundaries, and snails
Toronto has recently completed a Ward Boundary Review, its first since, oh, 2000. City councillors were concerned that some wards had far more voters than others. Population was growing downtown and declining in the inner suburbs. After 17 years, Something … Continue reading
Rescued from oblivion
On the morning of April 12, 2016, three of us set out from this courtyard on an astounding walk through the Marais. But the story starts much earlier. In 1980, a sharp-eyed passerby spotted some photographs in a Paris dumpster … Continue reading
Posted in Paris architecture, Paris history, Paris markets, Paris quartiers, Paris streets
Tagged A. Cayeux, André Malraux, îlots insalubres, Creaphis Editions, F. Nobécourt, Janvier Graveur Estampeur, Le Pas Sage, Malraux law 1962, Marais, Marché des Enfants Rouges, Paris Marais 43, Paris Occupation, Patrice Roy, rue Michel le Comte, Second World War
30 Comments
The colours of the Batignolles
The Batignolles does not attract many tourists. That, in itself, is part of its charm. But there are many reasons to venture there. Food. Gardens. Places for children to play. And colour, because that is what struck us both – … Continue reading




















